As above, I have this question myself..
Indonesia is actually a very special to Land rover, because their first dealer outside England is in Indonesia “Java Motor”. Since around 1950 Java motor is the only place we can buy land rover in Indonesia
Again back to the question, how much is the cost when land rover series is new..? Fortunately I have an old document a purchase receipt of the land rover series short wheel base for my very first land rover. According to the document, the cost of new hard top, short wheel base land rover is: Rp. 4.950.000 (US$ 500 using current rate) March 1977. Any one can calculate the current price taking into account the inflation etc, please write down below… Here is the picture of the document:
Harga land rover series Baru
Apparently the buyer at that time is on the waiting list, he need to pay the down payment and only three months later the landy is up for collection. Here is the landy when I bought it for 15.000.000 (1.500 US$) few years ago. So I paid three times more than it was new.. :).
Along with receipt, I also found the standard equipment comes with this truck… here is the equipment standard
Warning: Long article but worth it..! There are a lot of information about how we upgrade our old engine… some says.. : drop in the 2.5 cam, milled the head by 0.02 inch, ported and polish etc etc.. all is good advise but I read this discussion (or debate) with great interest and decided to put it here in case we need reference lets start (I deleted conversation that are irrelevant), and unfortunately, I can not see the poster names unless it stated at the end of the post.
Someone: I think that these engines have a specified max rev limit of 4600. Though going over 4000 for anything short of a few seconds is probably not a good idea. My tachometer has the occasional misbeat but in no way does it wander like yours does. If its something to do with the ignition and not a bad connection it’ll show up on a vacuum guage as well, they’re cheap, easy to fit and very useful.
Roland (ACR): We set the Power Plus engine red line at 5200RPM this will give plenty of safety margin as they will run to 5700 on an intermittent basis with no problems. There is little to be gained by running much over 4800 as the power falls off rapidly over this point. However if you enjoy using the power e.g. racing rush hour traffic, off road competition etc it is useful to be able to run past maximum power so that the engine drops into a more favourable part of the power band on changing up a gear as the spacing between gear ratios on the 4 speed box is large. Regarding oil temperature the red line is around 250 however Mobil 1 will work safely well beyond that . We would keep the 250 as the upper maximum it is very unlikely even desert temperatures will push the temperature this high.
Wheel Alignment… do it when :
- You feel an excessive play in the steering wheel
- The car is sometime pulling you to the right or left
- A bit difficult to control (wandering around)
- If you turning (right or left) the steering wheel is not easily comeback to the original position
Now, there is a good chance that the computer in the garage or tire shop do not have information to adjust your Land Rover Series, from what I read somewhere on the internet… not sure where… following is the info needed for wheel alignmenr
front wheel toe-in: 1.2 mm – 2.4 mm (3/64 inch – 3/32 inch)
castor angle : 3°
camber angle : 1°3′
swivel pin inclination : 7°
You migh not be able to adjust castor, camber and swivel pin though because its fixed
I just did the wheel alignment last weekend
In search for the best replacement of original Zenith carb, I found few alternatives, again Internet is helping me a lot. In the spirit of sharing, I would like to share my carburetor set up. I have written: possibly the best carburetor for land rover series few days ago, so I will not cover why I choose SU (skinner union) carb. Here I will explain about the set up, lets start…
Installation is the most complicated one
- It requires you to fabricate the manifold / bracket to attach SU carb to your inlet manifold
- It needs us to alter the current linkage (to pedal) set up
- SU HS6 comes with many type: Left fuel bowl, right fuel bowl, 90* (up right position) and 30* (slightly tilted like in V8 rover)
Those three combination of complexity need us to think, the best placement for the carb. Is it facing to engine, is facing the bulk head or is it facing the radiator fan etc.. Undeterred by this complexity, I go ahead and by second hand SU HS6 and hell broke loose.. :)
Installation: The relatively easy part is buying… I am lucky to get New Old Stock SU HS6 quite cheaply, so that is good..
Now lets make the manifold / bracket or anything you called to attach the carb to inlet manifold. The easiest way is go to a garage that have access on lathe and ask them to set it up for you. for my case I have to go to two different special garage, one is to make the base (two bases as you can see here: one goes to carb and one goes to manifold) the the other garage (exhaust specialist) to make the connection pipe and set it up in the landy. Here is the manifold ready to be installed.
And finally here is the installed carb… Picture explain better than word.. :)
With this set up I still retain part on the throttle linkage, just in case if I want to change it to zenith again, I still have the parts in there… Hence it installed away from bulkhead and closer to radiator fan. The oil bath filter is still there, although currently it is redundant… but yes you can use the oil bath filter again if you will cross Sahara desert… :)
So that’s all folks… if you have question please ask down below… stay tuned for part two I will talk about setting up the needle, jetting and spring and how it different with Zenith… see you later..